Production Routers

With the winter season upon us, its once again time for all woodworkers to hibernate to their woodworking shops and tend to their unfinished projects, or to start the one you've been putting off. One of the staple tools of your shop should be a production router, a real bad boy that is capable of doing just about any routing application you may have. Let's look at what a production router really is.

A production router is what its name says. Under extreme loads, it will produce time and time again. It's due to the powerful motor, usually 3 1/4 HP, 15 amp. They are available in either fixed base or plunge base. and which one is right for you is based upon whether or not you are going to table mount the router, or use it in hand applications. Let's delve into each area and look at the pluses and minuses of each.

We'll start with hand routing. For this application, you may go with either style. The primary use for the plunge would be to make interior cuts in your material, but will find it useful in countless situations. Even if fixed base is preferred, you can plunge down your base, and lock it into a position that would allow the router to be used as if it were a fixed base. So as you can tell, the plunge base will be more versatile in hand applications. It is important to keep in mind that these routers are extremely heavy and bulky and difficult to use by hand. Now if you've been using these routers for years, you're probably saying to yourself "he's crazy...I have no problem using the large routers!" But the truth is that you are only saying so based upon your years of use. After time, they become easier because you become more used to them, but they are awkward at first.

Let's shift to table mounted routers. Since you are not handling them by hand, weight is not an issue, and bigger is better! It is always a good idea to put as much power under the table as possible, and not limit yourself due to an underpowered motor. Your cuts will be much cleaner, with less chance for error on table routing applications. The big debate is whether to use plunge or fixed base in your table. Many "experts" feel the plunge is the way to go, but I prefer fixed. I'll try to put into words the differences. Obviously, when the router is in the table, it is inverted, or upside down. To adjust the fixed base routers either up or down, you simply loosen a thumbscrew and twist the router motor clockwise or counterclockwise, then retighten the thumbscrew. For plunge routers, if the adjustment is minimal, you can do so by turning a microfine height adjustment knob either installed on the router as standard equipment, or sold as an accessory. It's important to note that this knob is an absolute necessity if you are table mounting the router. Without the knob, or even with the knob if the adjustment is more than the knob will allow for, you have to depress a lever on the router, and push up on the motor, which could be quite difficult to do. Plus, your router is mounted to a plate that will probably pop out if pushed up as I described. It is for these reasons that I highly recommend the fixed base for under the table, even though many will disagree.

Lets take a brief look at what accessories could be useful. Make sure you have both 1/4" and 1/2" collets available, so that you will be able to utilize any bits in the router. If you are using it by hand, a good edge guide could come in handy, as could a router mat to provide stability to your work surface. A good set of template guides could also come in handy when following a pattern, or when using router bits without bearings.

Now that we've dissected this tool, let's take a look at which are the best. I'll start with fixed base because their really is little competition. Porter Cable model 7518 and Milwaukee model 5625-20 are the only choices available with both being incredibly well built tools.

Next we shift gears back to plunge routers and the competition here is much more fierce. I'll start with the router that I feel is probably the best value for the money, the Freud FT2200EP. It is powerful with most of the necessary accessories like both collets and the height adjustment knob. Next up is the Hitachi M12V, another great value that includes even more than the Freud, like the edge guide and a template guide, although it is more expensive than the Freud.

The next three routers I am grouping together because they are substantially more expensive than the previous two. They are the Porter Cable 7539, Dewalt DW625, and the Bosch 1619EVS. Although all of these routers are 3 1/4 HP, these three I feel are the most powerful, and will prove to be the most durable over time. These three routers all include about the same basic equipment, that being a 1/2" collet. All of the other accessories, including 1/4" collet and height adjustment knob are sold as accessories. My favorite here is the Bosch. It is very smooth operating and a tremendous workhorse. I guess it really comes down to the old adage...you get what you pay for!

As always, I encourage you to e-mail me with questions or comments, as well as ideas for future columns. Speak to you again next month!

Till next month,

Dean "The Tool Guru" Barnett, President

International Tool Corporation

Email the Guru.

Read previous months' tips:

Circular Saws
Biscuit Joiners
Cabinet Tablesaws  
Slide Compound Miter Saws
Mid-Sized Plunge Routers
Cordless Drills
Detail Sanders
Random Orbit Sanders
Brad Nailers
Hammer Drills
Saw Blades
Routers